I’ve written about dogs as animal and dogs as species, the two natural aspects of their being. But breed, one of the two human-created aspects, has a powerful part to play in shaping your dog’s instincts. Breeds came about through selective mating, and the diversity of dog breeds is astounding, ranging from tiny toy dogs like Yorkies and Chihuahuas on one end all the way up to giant breeds like Great Danes and Saint Bernards. It’s sometimes hard to believe that such diverse animals are even from the same species. Breeds were created for different reasons—some dogs were bred as companions, some as herders, and some as protectors. But each was bred to draw out and focus on desired instincts to create dogs that excelled at particular tasks.
Now, although the animal and species aspects of dogs are common to all of them, breed can sometimes affect behavior, and it is also sometimes necessary to consider breed when working with a dog, whether just for training, by giving them an appropriate job, or in rehabilitation. However, keep in mind that the breed is “only the suit.” The more purebred a dog is, the stronger the dog will show breed characteristics and instincts. But by fulfilling her animal and species needs through the walk and using my fulfillment formula, you will minimize breed-related misbehaviors.
This doesn’t mean you need to ignore breed entirely. In fact, it can be a nice experience for dogs and humans to engage in breed-appropriate activities. In cases of misbehavior caused by breed-related instincts, it is essential.
Seven basic groups of dogs—sporting, hound, working, herding, terrier, toy, and nonsporting—have been bred over the centuries for various functions. You can fulfill each of their specific needs in slightly different ways.
Dogs in the sporting group were bred to assist with hunting, by either pointing at or flushing out prey, or retrieving kills, particularly waterfowl. Good activities for this group include games that simulate finding or retrieving prey. For pointers, you can introduce them to an object with a familiar scent, and then hide it. Reward them when they “point,” although don’t let them actually retrieve the object, because this can stimulate their prey drive. For spaniels, let them locate the object. For retrievers, allow them to bring it to you.
Dogs in the hound group were also bred for hunting, except that unlike those in the sporting group, hounds actually do the hunting and pursuing, and their prey are usually mammals rather than birds. Hounds are divided into two groups: scent hounds and sight hounds. You can fulfill the needs of the former with the “runaway” game. This involves presenting your dog with items of clothing with familiar scents from the human pack on them, and then hiding them along a regular route of your walk. Reward your dog for every item she finds.
Sight hounds, which are accustomed to hunting from a farther distance, are natural runners, so they are ideal candidates for towing you on in-line skates or running with you on your bike. Keep in mind, though, that sight hounds are sprinters, not long-distance runners, so get used to a short, fast dash followed by a more regular-paced walk.
Dogs in the working group were bred when humans moved from a hunting-and-gathering lifestyle into villages, and their name is a pretty good description of their purpose. These dogs were used for their size and strength—for guarding, pulling, and rescuing. Naturally, these dogs excel at pulling, and letting them tow a cart on the walk is an ideal use of this instinct. Remember, working dogs do not look at pulling as a chore. It is a physical and psychological challenge that makes them feel useful and valued.
The herding group, with its instinct to control the movements of other animals, is naturally excellent at herding. However, if you don’t have a herd of sheep or cattle handy, don’t worry. These breeds are also excellent at agility training and, oddly enough, are world-champion flying disc (or Frisbee) dogs.
Dogs in the terrier group were bred to chase down small prey, frequently following rodents into their burrows to kill them. Although smaller, they were bred down from working and herding dogs, so many of the same activities that fulfill those breeds will work for terriers, particularly those with high energy.
The toy group dogs may have originally been bred to hunt very small animals, but evidence indicates that they quickly became just companion animals; the image of a rich woman with a teacup terrier in her purse is nothing new, and this group stemmed from the human tendency to fall in love with animals that are cute and that resemble juvenile forms. With their tiny faces and large eyes, toy dogs fit this description perfectly. Although members of the toy group have been bred from various other groups, they were not bred for any specific tasks. That is why it is even more important with toy dogs that you treat them as animals and dogs first. This group, more than any other, contains the dogs that should be allowed to be dogs. You’re not doing your toy dog any favors by carrying her everywhere or letting her go off leash. Let your dog out of the bag and put a leash on her, so she can be a dog and walk around on her own feet.
Finally, the nonsporting group is somewhat of a catchall description that could have also been called “none of the above.” This group includes the poodle, bulldog, Boston terrier, bichon frise, French bulldog, Lhasa apso, shar-pei, chow chow, Shiba Inu, and Dalmatian. Depending on the specific breed, you can find an appropriate activity among the preceding groups.
Although dog breeds are diverse and were created to carry out various tasks, remember that all dogs require some form of exercise, preferably via the walk. The suggestions here are designed for further bonding opportunities with your dog, as well as suggested routes for rehabilitation if you are still having issues, particularly those influenced by your dog’s natural instincts.
