Dog Crate
The biggest mistake new pet parents sometimes make is not sufficiently controlling the environment of their new dog. A dog crate can be a convenient way to help you do just that for short periods. Most dogs love it, provided you introduce it correctly and make the crate an enjoyable place to be. Crates not only provide dogs with a sense of safety but also help keep them secure when you’re out of the house or too occupied to watch them. Another bonus: Dogs don’t like to soil where they sleep, so crates help greatly with housetraining.
Durable plastic crates are easy to clean and perfect for traveling. Wire crates are another option—they offer more ventilation and a full view, and you can cover them with a towel at night to create a cozier atmosphere. Look for a crate that is easy to open and close and large enough that your dog can stand up and turn around in it easily. If your crate is much larger than that, a dog may initially soil one end but not the other until she realizes that her whole crate is her bedroom. (Just keep in mind that when it comes to the size of a crate, too big is always better than too small.) You might also consider getting an oversized crate with an adjustable divider panel so that you can slowly expand the room your dog has as she grows and also begins to understand that she shouldn’t do her business in the crate. See this page, chapter 3, and this page, chapter 5, for more information on crate training.
Baby Gate and Puppy Playpen
A gate and a playpen can come in handy and assist you with the supervision process. A gate prevents your dog from entering rooms you don’t want her to go into, while a playpen allows her to run around and play in a confined area. Gates are also essential for blocking staircases—dogs can fall down stairs and wind up with serious injuries. Keep one up until your dog is at least six months old and can navigate the stairs on her own.
A gate and a playpen are also great options if you don’t want to use a crate for any reason. When choosing a gate, find one that’s durable and made of a material other than wood. Make sure no openings on the gate are large enough for the dog to stick her head through—she can wind up getting stuck or strangled. As for a playpen, make sure it is sturdy and that your dog can’t chew through it or climb out of it.
Bowls
Your dog will need at least one bowl for food and one for water. Get a few extras so that you can wash them every day and easily swap out a dirty water bowl with a clean one. Stainless steel is your best bet because it’s durable and won’t chip. Heavy ceramic is another option, but make sure it doesn’t contain lead, which can be toxic to your dog. Avoid anything with dyes, and stay away from plastic if possible—some dogs are allergic to it. Others like to chew on the plastic, and such bowls can splinter off into tiny pieces that your dog might swallow. Also, if you have a dog with long ears, such as hounds and spaniels, look for bowls that are specially tapered so her ears don’t get wet or dirty while she eats.
Food
Find out what your dog has been eating at the place where you found her and buy a small bag of that food. Suddenly switching from one food to another can cause diarrhea (just what you need with a dog who isn’t housetrained yet!). Chapter 3 addresses how to switch food when you’re ready; chapter 8 helps you pick the best food for your pet.
Identification
If your dog were to run away and get lost, an ID tag that hooks onto your dog’s collar can be the key to reuniting with her. It’s up to you what the tag says; at least include your phone number so if someone finds your dog, they can contact you. Some people opt to also include their name, address, their dog’s name, and other identifying details.
A Collar or Harness
Your dog will need a collar right away to hold her ID tag and eventually her rabies tag. At first, just pick up a simple adjustable nylon or leather collar that buckles together. (Save the receipt in case it doesn’t fit.) It shouldn’t be too tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that it’ll slip right off—you should be able to slip only two fingers under the collar. Take the collar off when your dog is in her crate—she may scratch at it until she gets used to it, and her foot could get stuck in it. The collar itself can also get stuck on the crate, creating a choking risk. While a collar is essential for your dog’s ID tags, a harness is also great for most dogs for general control, safety, and training—especially for puppies eight months and younger, small breeds, those with short noses such as Pugs and Boxers, and dogs with thin necks such as Greyhounds. Choose one that’s easy to get on and off. Another consideration: If your dog is a very young puppy or a tiny breed such as a Yorkie or a Maltese, you might want to put a small bell on her collar so people can hear when she’s approaching and avoid stepping on her.
Leashes
You’ll need a leash not only to walk your dog but possibly also to keep her tethered to you during training. For the initial leash, choose one that’s four to six feet long. I suggest nylon because they are the least expensive, you can tie them to a belt loop, and they are the easiest to wash, though leather and rope are fine, too. Retractable leashes are another option some people like, particularly to give their dogs some room to roam and sniff around while also maintaining control of their environment. However, when taking your dog on proper walks or in public, refrain from using a retractable leash until she’s well trained. You’ll also need a longer lead leash—twenty to thirty feet—for training.
Grooming Tools
It’s your responsibility to keep your dog clean, but which tools you’ll need depends on her breed or combination of breeds and whether or not you plan to hire a groomer or do it yourself. At first, at least make sure you have a good bristle brush to keep your dog’s coat tangle free. Pick up shampoo, nail trimmers, cotton balls, an ear cleaner, a toothbrush, and toothpaste. For more information on grooming supplies, see chapter 8.
Toys
Bouncy balls, stuffed plush elephants, flying discs, and tug toys—the dog toys available on the market these days would give Toys“R”Us a run for its money. Don’t go overboard—buy a few different types and see what your dog’s preferences are. Choose toys that are durable, size-appropriate, and a little bigger than you think you need; for instance, choose a ball that will fit in your dog’s mouth but one she can’t swallow.
Many dogs, especially puppies, have a strong urge to chew—stick with hard rubber toys that help her satisfy this need. Also, if you notice your pet tearing her squeaky rabbit to shreds or eating the plastic eyes off of it, or a toy rope starts to fray, then remove it immediately. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, choose toys that are “indestructible,” “ultra durable,” or something similar.
Chemical Deodorizer
When you’re housetraining, your dog is going to have accidents in the house. It’s a normal part of the process. Of course, you’re going to clean up any mess right away, but your dog’s keen sense of smell will detect the urine or feces odor for a long time even when you can’t. This, in turn, can lead her to continue marking the same spot repeatedly, as at first dogs are likely to go to the same spot or two to do their business. To remove the odor, clean the soiled spot with an enzyme-based chemical deodorizer you can find in pet supply stores or some grocery stores.
Poop Bags or Scooper
Many areas require by law that people pick up their dog’s poop. And even if your city or neighborhood doesn’t, do it anyway—leaving a mess on the street is not only unneighborly, it’s also dangerous: it can cause the spread of parasites, and the feces can wash into local water sources and contaminate it. Stock up on plastic bags or pick up some waste bags at your pet supply store along with a dispenser that attaches to your dog’s leash. After your dog goes potty, put the bag over your hand, grab the poop, and then turn the bag inside out and tie it closed; when you get home, dispose of it in your trash. Another option: a pooper-scooper, a device designed to pick up dog poop, handy for cleaning up your yard.
Treats
Treats can be an essential training tool or just a nice way to give your dog a little something special. I recommend having two main types of treats for training. The first is high-quality soft dog treats (commonly known as “training treats”) that you can store at room temperature and easily access to reward your dog spontaneously when she does something you like. However, for primary training sessions, you’ll want to get your dog excited and motivated for training, so the key is to choose a treat that she really loves. I always include tiny pieces of boiled chicken or another real meat as the treat. Yes, I’m talking about the same stuff we humans eat!
In general, make sure training treats are low in fat and sodium and made in America. Also, while I don’t advise over-treating your dog with low-quality commercial dog treats “just because,” the occasional traditional dog biscuit is fine. Don’t feed your pet jerky treats: since 2007, the Food and Drug Administration has received thousands of reports of pets becoming sick or even dying after eating jerky treats.1 Most of these treats were made in China, but not all treat packaging indicates where they were made. Just avoid them. In fact, make it a general rule to avoid any pet food or treats from China for the time being.
Bones and Rawhides
You’ll likely want to have at least a bone or two on hand to help satisfy your dog’s chewing urge, which is particularly strong for puppies as their teeth come in. Think big: always choose a bone that your dog can’t possibly choke on. If you want to give your dog rawhides, buy the ones that are compressed and don’t have a twist on the end (dogs can unwind these, which can lead to a choking hazard). Once your dog has consumed half the rawhide, replace it, and if you notice that your dog is going through rawhides very quickly, find something else for her to chew. Another favorite option: 100 percent naturally shed deer antlers, which last an extremely long time, clean teeth, and don’t stain, splinter, or chip. Other hard bones that don’t splinter may be good options, too.
You’ll have dozens of dog beds to choose from, if and when you decide to purchase one for your pet—everything from your basic donut beds to luxury couches, orthopedic cushions, and even heated beds. But don’t invest in a pricey bed right off the bat; wait until your dog is done housetraining. Also, during their first several months or even longer, many dogs (even some adult dogs) will chew up their new bed. In the meantime, you can make your dog’s crate extra cozy with a simple mat or old blankets or towels (as long as she doesn’t chew them).
